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How to Make a Copper Proofing Parrot


Here’s a link to the parrot parts:

Transcription:
Hey, how’s it going? This is Kyle Brown with Clawhammer Supply — makers of premium copper moonshine stills and distillation equipment. Today I’m going to show you how to put together our new parrot kit.
So, step 1, clean all the parts with a wire brush and some sandpaper. Uhh, sandpaper will actually do. Just clean the end of the pipes and the inside of the fittings and you’re good to go. While you’re watching me do this I’m going to explain for those of you who do not know what a parrot is, what it does. Parrots allow you to measure the proof of alcohol as it is coming out of your still real-time. Alcohol will drip out of your copper moonshine still into the collection vessel on the parrot and then down up around the hydrometer (which you’ll drop down into the parrot) and then out and into your collection vessel (for example a mason jar). In the process you will be able to measure the proof.
So, tip number one here, always make sure you’re using water soluble flux. Step number one, actually, step number 2 here solder the large reducer “t” fitting onto the end of the 1 inch pipe. Uh, the fitting should be flush with or slightly inset from the end of the pipe. It doesn’t…it’s not too critical exactly where you get that thing. Just get it, get the end of that fitting nearly flush with the end of the pipe.
So, I’m using some lead free solder here. Make sure you’re using lead free solder. You’ll notice that as I’m soldering these joints, what I do is I will add heat to the joints, I tap the um joint with my solder, and as soon as that solder starts to melt, I pull the heat away. At that point, once the solder is melting you generally don’t need to add any more heat. What, what adding more heat at that point will actually do is um start to cause some soot to build up on that joint and at that point you’re going to have a difficult time getting the solder to flow into that joint and stick. So, as soon as the solder starts to melt (you’ll see me do it again here) pull the heat away.
I also like to heat the bottom of these joints and tap the solder, uh, let the solder flow down from the top. That’s generally how most people sweat uh pipe joints and um, it works pretty well.
So what I’ve done is I’ve here is I’ve um added a 1 inch to ½ inch reducer coupling on the bottom of that 1 inch pipe a little ½ inch connector, a ½ by ½ by ½ inch “T”, another little ½ inch male connector, and then the end cap on the end there.
Notice the ½ by ½ by ½ “T”, the small “T”, the middle port on that is facing the opposite from the middle port, port on the large reducer “T” on the other end of the parrot there. Make sure you install the parts that way.
Alright, next step here after you get those joints soldered together is to add your 90 degree street and then add the large, the longest actually, the longest ½” pipe to that 90 degree elbow and then you’ll take the smaller ½ inch pipe that comes with the kit and use that to prop that uh, ½ inch piece of pipe (the longer piece of ½ inch pipe) up so it is parallel with the 1 inch piece of pipe. And you’ll see I’m kind of just making some last minute adjustments there to make sure that is all lined up properly.
So I’m soldering the 90 degree street here into the ½ by ½ by ½ “T”. I’m also soldering that longer piece of ½ inch pipe into the other end of the 90 uh degree street elbow. What I like to do is sort of uh wipe these joints off after I’m done, after they’ve had a chance to cool a little bit. As I’m going, it just makes the final cleanup a bit easier. Speaking of the final cleanup, you’ll see the final product at the end of this video. But, um, what I will do is I’ll take some um, I don’t know, 100 grit sandpaper, 100 grit, yeah, 100 grit works pretty well, I’d say, and I’ll just kind of rough the whole thing up. I like to put a nice little matte finish on there. I mean you can take the time to polish it all up and make it all bright and shiny so you can see your reflection in it, um, but uh, I’ll tell you what, unless you keep up with that routine it’s going to get, it’d going to get sort of dirty and faded in the end anyway. So, I don’t take a whole lot of time to do it, but I definitely will, ill kind of sand it up and sand all the grit off there once I’m done, at the very least. So, the last couple of steps here, um, I’m soldering, let’s see, well I didn’t talk about soldering that big uh, the cup, the um half to inch and a half cup on there, and then I’m soldering the last couple of fittings on there.
What you end up with when you’re all done with this thing is a nice, bright, shiny, copper parrot. It looks great, it works really well, um we’re really proud of this new product we have for you here. So, make sure to visit our website for our parrot kits, and our moonshine stills, and much, much more at www.clawhammersupply.com. Thanks for watching, see ya.

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